Easter in Japan

So Easter crept up on me again. On Friday, Keiko told me that she’d heard on BBC radio that it was Good Friday. I knew it was almost that time of year, but in Japan there is nothing to tell you that Easter is ahead.

On Sunday, we headed out to The Tavern, a British pub in Yokohama. They serve an all-you-can-eat carvery, a rare treat in Japan. It’s a relatively quiet place to go for lunch, but you can get roast lamb, beef, potatoes, yorkshire puddings and gravy, all washed down with a cider. This Sunday, the meat was a bit burnt around the edges but still, for ¥1500 a head, it’s not too bad.

As we left, I tried to buy a can of baked beans, also a difficult buy in Japan. The owner went into the back and said he couldn’t find any. However, he had a huge 2.62 kg can under his arms and said that we could have it for free. The lid says 11/2009, but it’s a can, so it should all be fine – although I need a large Tupperware container to keep it all in. Regardless, it’s sitting on shelf and waiting for me to open it.

After lunch, we tried to find another rareity: an Easter egg. We went to the import shop in Yokohama station, but no dice. It doesn’t feel like Easter if you’re not overdosing on chocolate though, so we stocked up on goodies and went home to watch a few movies and relax. Not a terrible end to the day.

How was your Easter? Did you eat some chocolate for me?

A Meal to Remember

It is safe to say that I’m a pretty poor romantic. I’ve failed time and time again on occasions where it really counts (my proposal was so bad, we’re embarrassed to talk about it). It is thus no surprise that I have never really been able to take Keiko out for a fantastic meal. This Christmas I made it happen!

On a recommendation from @shinpuren, we made a reservation at Chef’s V, a restaurant on the 5th floor of Yokohama’s Landmark Tower. @shinpuren told us that the service was excellent, and that really is a deal-breaker for me. I frequently choose restaurants that look fancy but rarely do I come across one in which the staff actually make a memorable impression.

We were taken with a nice sounding course menu, but the next morning we received a call from the restaurant: on Christmas Day they would only be serving a ¥12,500 meal (£80). Keiko said that was okay and accepted the time and cost before telling me about it. Expensive or not, we were both a bit excited about what we would be eating.

It started with champagne with Christmas music in the background. Everyone’s reservation started from 18:20 and like one big party we were all served together. At around 18:30, just before the first course, the blinds opened to reveal Minato Mirai in all its light-up glory. It was a nice view and the invariably young couples on the side-by-side, snug window seats must have had a spectular time looking out.

The first course was foie gras flan. Foie gras, for those who aren’t aware, is the fatty liver of an extremely fat goose or duck. The flan, which I assume also contained cream and butter, had an extremely creamy, buttery taste and texture, but with a mild spicy after-taste. In small doses, on top of a bruschetta perhaps, I imagine I could have liked it; however, in this case, a single bruschetta was dipped into the flan making it more than a little like eating butter with a spoon.

Next up was the appetiser: creamed cauliflour, drenched in orange sauce, held up a bundle of crab meat topped with caviar, while at the back of the bowl sat a lobster-filled spring roll. The crab meat was delicious as was the crispy lobster spring roll, however, the orange sauce was difficult for me to stomach: its taste was overwhelming. Regrettably, because of this perhaps, I was unable to taste the caviar.

The third course was seafood: a very soft and palatable sea bream that melted in your mouth, in creamy risotto. This was outstandingly good. My only regret is that, like all the other courses, the serving was so small that I cleaned off my plate in only a few spoonfuls.

The final main course was meat, more specifically wa-gyu, Japanese beef. This was my first time to try the excessively expensive beef from famously pampered cows. It really didn’t disappoint. The marbled fat made it soft and creamy, completely unlike any other meat I had ever tried. On top were real slices of truffles. When we booked the meal, I had no idea that chocolate truffles were only named so because of their appearance. Having tasted the real thing, I can guarantee that real chocolate truffles would be disgusting. Truffles have a corky, woody taste that is impossible for me to like. This course, like the starters, was also slightly spoilt by the overpoweringly fruity sauce. Also, Keiko got double the amount of truffles I had (which I can let slide) and much more beef  (lots of which she slipped onto my plate, what a wife!).

Last up was the dessert which consisted of a fantastic cheesecake and a pistachio-flavoured truffito-style ice cream. It was a nice end to a really great meal. We had a thoroughly great time, and even if I didn’t like every course, it was an culinary experience for both of us.

The only downside, as I mentioned above, was the lack of balance in the food. The foie gras had the purest taste, I imagine, and the fish course was perfect, but the meat course and appetiser needed a little more work in my opinion. From my days watching Hell’s Kitchen, I am reminded of Gordon Ramsey berating chefs for using too much sauce to cover their poor food. I have no doubt that the food at Chef’s V was excellent, I just wish that the staff would have allowed that excellence to shine through a little more.

On a final note, the service was wonderful. From taking pictures of the guests (with extreme patience), to quick turnovers on bread, water and courses (although on the latter point, a little more time would have been welcome).

All in all, an excellent meal worth its price, and a start to a thoroughly good Christmas. Thanks Chef’s V, you can be sure we’ll drop by for a regular course sometime this year.

Hokkaido: Day Seven – New Year’s Eve

[Note: I'm back at work now, so things are going to take a while to get back on track. Bear with me.]

With Keiko joining us, the balance turned. Almost immediately, the amount of Japanese I was speaking dropped significantly. It wasn’t intentional, but with Keiko around, not only could I convey myself more clearly, but everyone around me stop speaking, to me at least, as simply as they had been. I tried in places, but I was either corrected or Keiko had to clarify… the onus was no longer on me to keep trying and so I tried a little less.

The morning kicked off early with Keiko’s 96 years old grandmother being picked up from the old people’s home where she lives. She is a lovely lady, unable to walk, as weak as you might expect, but I charmed her with the old “you look 18!” trick. Works every time.

I didn’t really know quite what to expect from the day ahead, but Keiko told me that her father had to go to the fire station. I practically begged to be taken with them. While I never really dreamed of becoming a fireman (naturally given my fear of heights and fire – in fact, I had a chip-pan type fire today, really shook me up!), I nevertheless appreciate the hard work that firemen put in for the average Joe like me.

Keiko’s dad asked them if they could give me a tour after he was done with his business, and they obliged. I was well chuffed: I got a peek inside an ambulance (as with the US, in Japan, the fire service holds paramedic responsibilities, and at all three kinds of fire engine.

The hardworking men of the Ikutahara Fire Department: Hiro-san and Nakamura-san

Keep in mind, these men had the New Year’s Eve night shift. They would be there until the morning, missing out on the festivities with their families. Nakamura, the man on the right, was living his childhood dream. That’s the way to live, I say.

More photos after the cut…
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Christmas Celebrations

The Christmas period has been particularly busy. We have always tried to organise something with our friends and family, but this year was different: it was my first Christmas in another country. While that, in itself, was not particularly difficult, it meant that things would be slightly different. On Monday 22nd December, I went to Yokohama’s Minato Mirai (literally, ‘future harbour’) to see what Christmas illuminations there might have been. Turns out that there wasn’t much at all…

Lots of photos after the cut…

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Post-Machida Report

Today we met ****** and ****** in Machida for lunch. It has been a while since we’d seen them, and it was nice to see them here in a place we all know so well.

[Edit: blanked out names to protect the innocent!]

Lots more pictures after the cut. Read more of this post

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