Todoroki Valley Park

Type:
Natural site

Location:
Setagaya-ku, Tokyo

How to get there:
Todoroki is 3 stops from Jiyuugaoka on the Tokyu Oimachi line.

Entry:
Free

Time needed:
Up to 2 hrs

Summary:
When people think of Tokyo, they undoubtedly conjure up images of a Blade Runner skyline and throngs of people hurrying across scramble crossing. Among this scenery, we can sometimes find areas of considerable greenery, thanks in no small part to Japan’s humid summer climate.

Todoroki Valley Park is such a place. Nestled in a cravas carved in the concrete of Tokyo’s residential Setagaya Ward, you descend down into surprising greenery. You can follow the path along the river for about a kilometre, making it a nice place for a stroll on a nice day.

Once you reach the end, you can go back to the station and check out Kuhonbutsu (2 stops down), or even walk over there (30-45 minutes). An alternative would be to head to the river for some people-watching. The river comes alive with sports at the weeknd. After, why not walk to Futakotamagawa for a spot of shopping (45-60 minutes) or downriver to Tamagawa station (45-60 minutes) where you can sample some fish and chips, or continue along the Toyoko line one stop to the picturesque expensive neighbourhood of Denenchofu. An alternative, in all cases, is to simply catch the next bus that comes along.

Highlights:
Todoroki Fudo Temple lies at the end of the valley. You cannot miss the waterfall once used for misogi training, from that point, take the steps to the top of the valley’s side.

The temple has its roots in the Heian period but you would be hard-pressed to tell. It’s wooden structure looks as good as new, and visiting after the flower festival (9th April), the grounds were decorated with colourful flora. Spring is also a great time due to the views afforded from the temple’s platform. Like a mini-Kiyomizu-dera (in Kyoto), you can look out on the spring and autumnal colours and soak up the fresh local air.

Watch out for:
Across the stream from Todoroki Fudo Temple is a garden open to the public. There is a traditional Japanese residential-style gate on the side of the path. Inside are a range of traditional Japanese garden features including mikan trees, a dry pond, and stone lanterns. Once you have climbed to the top, you will find a grass green ideal for a picnic. In spring, you can even do a spot of hanami with the added convenience of on-hand public toilets. When sunny, bring a parasol for some shade.

Food and Drink:
At the foot of Todoroki Fudo Temple is a small rest area with a stall selling ramune (traditional Japanese soda) and a small range of other refreshments. Don’t miss their fish pond which is home to several kinds of koi carp and goldfish.

Alternatively, and perhaps more advisably, eat in the Todoroki station area before you leave. There is a McDonalds and a few other small establishments, including an excellent gelato/crepe shop beside the rail crossing.

Visited:
11th April 2010, 15:00 p.m.

Busy?:
Not particularly, however, on sunny holidays or weekends you might find the narrow sections of the course a little difficult to navigate.

Map:

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Gallery:

Nezu Shrine

Type:
Religious site

Location:
Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo

How to get there:
Nezu Station (C-14) is eight stops from Otemachi on the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line.

Entry:
Free

Time needed:
Up to 30 minutes

Summary:
At 300 years old, Nezu Shrine is one of the oldest original structures in Tokyo although you would be hard-pressed to notice. Its brilliant red gate, with its Buddhist character out-of-place in a Shinto shrine, makes an immediate impression as you approach from the street. It’s grounds are also home to Otome Inari Shrine, its corridor of torii gates reminiscent of the major Inari shrine at Fushimi (Inari is the goddess of rice – feudal lords used pay wages in rice – and is thus associated with success). The modest size of the grounds make it a short stop, but the surrounding shitamachi area known as Yanesen (Yanaka, Nezu, Sendagi) has a several minor sights worth seeing.

Highlights:
Despite it being early January, the plum blossoms were starting to bloom. They should be in full bloom in February, and if you visit in Golden Week, you’ll be treated to a plethora of colour from the azelea and wisteria thriving around the grounds.

Watch out for:
The torii gates. No, really. They’re quite low and I had to duck (I’m 5′ 7”). Giants beware!

Food and Drink:
10-15 minutes walk from the Shrine is Kamachiku, a family run home-made udon restaurant. It is closed on Mondays, so I was sadly disappointed, but it comes highly recommended. Be sure to get there early (11am-12pm seems best) as the food disappears quickly. See the map below for its location.

Visited:
11th January 2010, 14:30 p.m.

Busy?:
Not really, although during the azalea blooming season and the Shrine’s Azalea Matsuri (late April-Early May) you should expect crowds.

Map:

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Gallery:

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Top 10 Sightseeing Posts of 2009

It’s the time of year when our minds turn to the passage of time: as the clock counts down to the end of the first decade of the second millennium, I have become increasingly mindful of all that happened this year. Here are the most popular sightseeing posts of the year, as based on page-views:

10. Defender of Tokyo (10th August 2009)

After months of following the progress of its construction, the 18-metre tall RX-87 Gundam was finally erected in Odaiba, so I ventured out into a dark, cloudy day to take a look.

9. Fushimi Inari Taisha (31st October 2009)

A shrine to business success, surrounded by the forests of the Kyoto hillsides, Fushimi Inari Taisha is a sight to behold.

8. Hokkaido: Day Six – Abashiri (7th January 2009)

The only thing I knew about Hokkaido, prior to going, was that it was home to Abashiri Prison. Its hard to believe that prisoners actually survived its harsh winters.

7. Kinkakuji (9th November 2009)

UNESCO World Heritage Site and on everyone's Kyoto to-do lists, Kinkakuji is radiant in any season.

6. Silver Week: Odawara and Hakone (27th September 2009)

Odawara Castle: so disappointing, I had to make my day trip worthwhile by heading further up the line to Hakone-Yumoto.

5. A Grand Day Out (2nd May 2009)

Odaiba on a warm, late spring day: a Hawai'ian festival, the black water of Tokyo Bay, and the futuristic architecture of Tokyo Teleport.

4. Hokkaido: Day Three – Asahikawa (5th January 2009)

Despite the sub-zero temperatures, Asahiyama Zoo remains open... even if most of the animals didn't dare make an appearance.

3. Golden Week 2009 (4th May 2009)

Sagamiko, near Hachioji, is not a tourist attraction in the slightest, but if you live in West Tokyo or Kanagawa, you could do a lot worse for peaceful relaxation than this green stretch of countryside.

2. Y150@Minato Mirai, Yokohama (17th August 2009)

Yokohama's 150th anniversary celebrations had a lot of shiny things on display, but despite being a celebration of Yokohama's status as an international port, it was for the domestic audience only.

1. Gundam By Night (25th August 2009)

The culmination of the Odaiba Gundam's existence was a laser light show to the themes of the series. With Tokyo Bay in the background, it made for a wonderful evening.

Ginkakuji

Type:
Religious site, Popular attraction, UNESCO World Heritage site

Location:
Sakyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto Prefecture

How to get there:
Take the Number 5, 17, or  100 bus from Kyoto Station;
Take the Number 5, 17, 32, or 203 bus from Shijo Kawaramachi Bus Stop, on the intersection near the Hankyu and Takashimaya department stores;
Number 100 or 203 bus from Gion Bus Stop, outside the entrance to Yasaka Shrine in Higashiyama on Shijo.

Entry:
500 Yen

Time needed:
30 mins – 1 hour (depending on how fast you walk)

Summary:
Ginkakuji is famous for the pavilion from which it derives its name. Its name means ‘Silver Pavilion’ as it was to be covered in silver leaf, like the Golden Pavilion at Kinkakuji, however plans came to a halt during the Onin War of the 15th Century. It was designed to be the retirement villa of Yoshimasa, the eighth Ashikaga shogun, grandson of Yoshimitsu, who retired at Kinkakuji. Construction was started in 1482, but Yoshimasa died before it could be finished. Since his death, it has remained in the same state, unfinished (a style often referred to as wabi-sabi). It became a Zen Buddhist temple following Yoshimasa’s death, and the pavilion has remained despite the destruction of its surroundings in a 1550 battle between Ashikaga Yoshiteru and Miyoshi Nagayoshi. For a number of years, the pavilion has been undergoing reconstruction, the most extensive of which has been from February 2008 to the current day (scheduled to finish in March 2010).

Highlights:
The Brocade Mirror Pond (Kinkyochi) which sits behind the marvellous sand garden (Sea of Silver Sand, Ginshadan) and beside the pavilion is filled with koi carp which swarm to feed by the bridges. The myriad stone bridges and rock islands make the pond both central to the site and incredibly beautiful.

Watch out for:
The Philosopher’s Path (tetsugaku no michi), a course frequently walked by Nishida Kitaro, runs from Ginkakuji to Nanzenji, a walk which takes 30 minutes. Lined with cherry trees, it is particularly beautiful in spring time.

Food and Drink:
There are numerous cafés and restaurants in the area stretching from the Ginkakujimichi bus stop to the temple itself. They range from the traditional to the foreign, cheap to lavish.

Visited:
23rd October 2009, 1:30 p.m.

Busy?:
If you are visiting in autumn and spring, expect crowds, but usually the number of visitors is quite thin inside the grounds.

See also:
Official Website: Ginkaku-ji – Guide

Gallery:

Kinkakuji

Type:
Religious site, Popular attraction, UNESCO World Heritage site

Location:
Kita-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto Prefecture

How to get there:
Take the Number 101 or 205 bus from Kyoto Station;
Take the Number 12, 59 or 205 from Shijo Kawaramachi Bus Stop, on the intersection near the Hankyu and Takashimaya department stores;
Number 12 bus from Gion Bus Stop, outside the entrance to Yasaka Shrine in Higashiyama on Shijo.

Entry:
400 Yen

Time needed:
30 mins – 1 hour (depending on how much/fast you walk)

Summary:
Kinkakuji is famous for the Golden Pavilion from which it derives its name. The Pavilion sits by a pond (Kyokochi, Mirror Pond) and is picturesque meter of the seasons: brilliant in summer, surrounded by earthy tones in autumn, and occasionally covered in snow in the winter. The pavilion was originally built in 1397 as a relics hall (shariden) in the grounds of the private retirement villa of Yoshimitsu, the third Ashikaga shogun.  It continues to display Buddhist relics, although many have been extensively restored following arson in 1950. The pavilion, reconstructed in 1955, stands at the entry point to the grounds, throughout which are several smaller shrines and historical sites which unfortunately seem unimpressive by comparison.

Highlights:
Having your picture taken across the water from the pavilion. Ask another person to take your photograph and reciprocate. If you can find a nice spot, try to take a tiled panorama to stitch together later so that you can properly capture the breadth of the view.

Watch out for:
Anmintaku (Tranquility Pond), the small pond further up the hill with a stone pagoda at its centre. It exudes a serene air that is difficult to avoid, but also difficult to capture on film.

Food and Drink:
There is a teahouse within the compound at which you can have whipped green tea (matcha) and a sweet (500 Yen), and lots of stands giving away free bits of yatsuhashi (a crepe-like rice cake). Near the bus stop, there are some more cafes catering to the tourist traffic.

Visited:
24rd October 2009, 2:00 p.m.

Busy?:
Always. If you are visiting in autumn and winter, expect an horrifically crowded bus during your long journey. If you can walk away from the main thoroughfares and catch a different bus, you might have a more pleasant journey.

See also:
Official Website: Kinkaku-ji – Guide

Gallery: